Tried taking a pic when it was fully in shadow but was too dark to find 
thru camera.  :(

-- 
Tim Cook
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-empyrean

-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.12
GFA dpu- s: a?-- C++(++++) U P? L E--- W++(+++)>$
N++ o? K- w(+) O? M-(--) V? PS+(+++) PE(--) Y(--)
PGP-(--) t* 5++>+++++ X+ R* tv+ b++(+++) DI
D++(---) G(++) e*>++ h+ !r--- !y--
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------

Post a reply to this message

Attachments:
Download 'moon.gif' (61 KB)

Preview of image 'moon.gif'

"Tim Cook" <z99### [at] bellsouthnet> wrote in message 
news:46d3f86a@news.povray.org...
> Tried taking a pic when it was fully in shadow but was too dark to find
> thru camera.  :(
>
> -- 
> Tim Cook

I can't get a stable-enough image.  I have a tripod, but it is set on grass 
and with no lead for bulb exposure, I still must touch the camera for 
time-lapse photography - and it moves, however careful I am.  My lens only 
extends to 125 mm so I can't zoom very close -- not that a 400 mm would be 
any  good anyway with the mechanical instability I have to deal with.

And for any exposure longer than a few seconds, I'd need a tracking mount. 
1 degree Earth rotation per every four minutes -- bah.

-- 
Brian

Post a reply to this message

Attachments:
Download 'mooneclipse1.jpg' (40 KB) Download 'mooneclipse2.jpg' (30 KB)

Preview of image 'mooneclipse1.jpg'

Preview of image 'mooneclipse2.jpg'

"Brian Elliott" <NotForSpam@AskIfUWant> wrote in message 
news:46d40701@news.povray.org...
> "Tim Cook" <z99### [at] bellsouthnet> wrote in message
> news:46d3f86a@news.povray.org...
>> Tried taking a pic when it was fully in shadow but was too dark to find
>> thru camera.  :(
>>
>> -- 
>> Tim Cook
>
> I can't get a stable-enough image.  I have a tripod, but it is set on 
> grass
> and with no lead for bulb exposure, I still must touch the camera for
> time-lapse photography - and it moves, however careful I am.  My lens only
> extends to 125 mm so I can't zoom very close -- not that a 400 mm would be
> any  good anyway with the mechanical instability I have to deal with.
>
> And for any exposure longer than a few seconds, I'd need a tracking mount.
> 1 degree Earth rotation per every four minutes -- bah.

BTW, I notice that your image is upside-down compared to mine (fuzzy, but 
can still tell).  Shows that you're in the Northern hemisphere and I'm in 
the Southern.  Here (Brisbane, Australia) the shadow grew from the 
bottom-left corner until the last fingernail vanished top-right.  My pics 
here were taken after peak coverage but before direct light has struck the 
Moon yet.

Anyway, still disappointed I haven't succeeded in getting a good image.

Post a reply to this message

> I can't get a stable-enough image.  I have a tripod, but it is set on 
> grass
> and with no lead for bulb exposure, I still must touch the camera for
> time-lapse photography - and it moves, however careful I am.

Hold a black card infront of the lens (but not touching) as you press the 
shutter, then move the card away a split second after you release the 
shutter.  That might help.

Post a reply to this message

"scott" <sco### [at] laptopcom> wrote in message 
news:46d415dd$1@news.povray.org...
>> I can't get a stable-enough image.  I have a tripod, but it is set on 
>> grass
>> and with no lead for bulb exposure, I still must touch the camera for
>> time-lapse photography - and it moves, however careful I am.
>
> Hold a black card infront of the lens (but not touching) as you press the 
> shutter, then move the card away a split second after you release the 
> shutter.  That might help.

On camera bulb setting, it holds its shutter open as long as the 
shutter-release button is held pressed, irrespective of any light hitting 
the meters.  Which means unfortunately, I have to keep a finger pressed on 
it for the entire length time I want the exposure.  Or get a proper bulb 
cord.  Actually I do have one with another old Pentax SLR that I have had 
for many years, but its screw thread doesn't fit into THIS modern camera. 
Dammit.

Post a reply to this message

>> Hold a black card infront of the lens (but not touching) as you press the 
>> shutter, then move the card away a split second after you release the 
>> shutter.  That might help.
>
> On camera bulb setting, it holds its shutter open as long as the 
> shutter-release button is held pressed, irrespective of any light hitting 
> the meters.

Oh I see, I had assumed you were setting the shutter time manually as 
anything more than 30 seconds is going to get blurry (as you suggested).

On my camera (Canon 300D) the remote shutter release is just a stereo 2.5mm 
jack, easy to pick up from electronics stores and wire up 2 simple switches 
if you can solder.

I suppose another alternative would be to use some sort of clamp to hold 
down the shutter button, then you can use the black card trick while 
attaching it and removing it.

Post a reply to this message

Brian Elliott wrote:
> 
> And for any exposure longer than a few seconds, I'd need a tracking
> mount. 1 degree Earth rotation per every four minutes -- bah.
> 

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/09/on-assignment-how-to-light-comet.html

They have some nice guides to cheap camera tricks. I think they left out
the required distance from the center of the screw to the center of the
hinge, 11 and 7/16 inches, but it's there in the comments some place.

Post a reply to this message

scott wrote:

> On my camera (Canon 300D) the remote shutter release is just a stereo 
> 2.5mm jack, easy to pick up from electronics stores and wire up 2 simple 
> switches if you can solder.

Simple way of getting around spending what they want for a remote. Might 
want to look for a switch that closes one contact on a half press, and 
another on full press to emulate the way the shutter button works. I 
don't know how easy or difficult it would be to find a SPDT pushbutton 
switch, though.

(Searching...Aha, found one!)

http://tinyurl.com/323qqz

> I suppose another alternative would be to use some sort of clamp to hold 
> down the shutter button, then you can use the black card trick while 
> attaching it and removing it.
> 
>

Post a reply to this message

>> On my camera (Canon 300D) the remote shutter release is just a stereo 
>> 2.5mm jack, easy to pick up from electronics stores and wire up 2 simple 
>> switches if you can solder.
>
> Simple way of getting around spending what they want for a remote. Might 
> want to look for a switch that closes one contact on a half press, and 
> another on full press to emulate the way the shutter button works. I don't 
> know how easy or difficult it would be to find a SPDT pushbutton switch, 
> though.
>
> (Searching...Aha, found one!)
>
> http://tinyurl.com/323qqz

For mine I used two toggle switches.  I found ones where you could flick 
them either way, to the left and they stay there (for long exposures) or to 
the right and they spring back (for repeated fast shots).  I just mounted 
them side-by-side in a small box and another 2.5mm socket, connected them up 
with a pre-made 2.5 mm stereo lead (I hate soldering those tiny plugs and 
they always come unstuck after a few weeks), and it all worked fine.

Post a reply to this message

Mike Raiford wrote:

> (Searching...Aha, found one!)
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/323qqz

Hmm, My guess now is not quite. Not enough information about that 
switch, but more info gives that SPDT pushbuttons are usually on-on, 
which means they don't have a center position. :/ if anyone can find a 
SPDT pushbutton that is off-on-on let me know.

Post a reply to this message