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St. wrote:
> I would make it out of pewter <snip> This is something you could
> do yourself and you wouldn't need a kiln, just a propane tank, the
> right torch and some Delft Clay:
Sounds extremely reckless for the inexperienced. I'm in!
> How many components are in this image?
Many. That' why I think this one is best made from wood. I could cut out
the components with the laser engraver in a couple of hours. I do want
to try pewter, ceramic, and resin, however, with some more appropriate
designs.
Could I pour the plates out of pewter and then fold them over a rounded
corner?
-Shay
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St. wrote:
> I'll take that back and replace it with wonderful *and* Masterful
> work.
Thank you.
> After studying it most of the day, I'd wager not as many as I
> think overall. There are two initial components, both with three
> arms each.
> Do I get a toffee? ;)
You do.
> (Oh, and *I* do like the colours). ;)
So do I; Nothing wrong with mustard yellow in my book. But I have/do
acknowledge issues with the renders of all three. Another reason I feel
it best to continue with sculptures.
-Shay
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andrel wrote:
>> Here's what I'm thinking: print a small sub-section of this
>> (http://tinyurl.com/5s5nbm) earlier model, make a mold around the
>> print, pour resin or ceramic (I've got a kiln), and glue the many
>> pieces together into a complete sculpture. What do you think?
> Difficult, but doable. You'd have to position the cuts that have
> to be glued together very precise. Either where you just won't see
> them in the finished model, or where you have enough access to
> polish the seams. The mold also probably has to consist of several
> parts, because you have to take the thing apart to get your piece
> of of it. That'll be a whole new level of planning. I think the
> mold for this latest model would be more easy. Ceramics tends to
> deform when drying. This building block is more or less planar, so
> you can let it dry between planks to keep it in shape. Resin has
> the advantage that it does not deform and that rubber molds may be
> used. Ceramic does deform when drying out, but you can glue it
> with clay before firing it, so you can have a seamless result.
Not very concerned with seams, so it sounds like resin would be best for
this one.
I very much want to try ceramic, however. My family have always kept
very busy with hobbies. I grew up around canning, woodwork, gardening,
home-spun wool and angora (from our own sheep, goats, and rabbits), and
ceramic. I'm thinking now about another design with slightly dished
plates. These could be held between bowls rather than planks when
drying. Or, just something where a bit of deformation won't hurt.
-Shay
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Stephen wrote:
> Is it better to look at a naturally beautiful woman (or man or
> sheep) than to look at one who uses artifice to make herself
> beautiful? (Note the pejorative use of the word artifice.)
Life isn't all about beauty. I'd look across the street to see a
beautiful girl, but I'd walk across the street to see Pan Qing Fu's
(anything but beautiful) knuckles.
-Shay
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Ger wrote:
> I have been going back and forth between your images and I must
> say that I'm appreciating them more and more.
Thank you.
> Not taking away any from my understanding how much time this can
> take.
I want to clarify a bit about the time. I could look at this completed
picture and model it in a reasonable amount of time. The unreasonable
time use comes from constructing modeling algorithms which allow me to
the freedom to edit the shapes. Then there's the editing. At one point,
these planar plates were in some areas connected by curved plates. A
nice idea, but the curved plates hid too much of the complexity underneath.
-Shay
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On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 10:20:04 -0500, Shay <sha### [at] none none> wrote:
>Life isn't all about beauty. I'd look across the street to see a
>beautiful girl, but I'd walk across the street to see Pan Qing Fu's
>(anything but beautiful) knuckles.
That's not what I was trying to illustrate. But Pan Qing Fu's knuckles would
pale into insignificance by seeing his beautiful movements.
Now that is artifice IMO.
--
Regards
Stephen
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On 07-Sep-08 17:01, Shay wrote:
> andrel wrote:
> Or, just something where a bit of deformation won't hurt.
As long as it does not prevent your pieces from matching up.
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On 07-Sep-08 16:45, Shay wrote:
> St. wrote:
>> I would make it out of pewter <snip> This is something you could
>> do yourself and you wouldn't need a kiln, just a propane tank, the
>> right torch and some Delft Clay:
>
> Sounds extremely reckless for the inexperienced. I'm in!
>
>> How many components are in this image?
>
> Many. That' why I think this one is best made from wood. I could cut out
> the components with the laser engraver in a couple of hours. I do want
> to try pewter, ceramic, and resin, however, with some more appropriate
> designs.
>
> Could I pour the plates out of pewter and then fold them over a rounded
> corner?
>
I think the idea would be that you design it, export in STL, have one
piece printed in 3D and then use the Delft Clay technique to create all
the pieces in pewter (or silver if you can afford that).
Or do what I did, make a gypsum mold around the piece and then cast
using liquid clay.
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On 07-Sep-08 14:46, Stephen wrote:
> On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 11:15:29 +0200, andrel <a_l### [at] hotmailcom> wrote:
>
>> There is another thing to note here. That is that true art shapes the
>> artist as well as the other way around
>
> I could not agree with you more.
> I think that the word that you are looking for is internalise or even "grok"
> from Robert A. Heinlein's Stranger in a Strange Land.
>
Indeed that would be a good word. I have come across the word, but only
used as a stronger version of understand. I was not aware of the
original meaning. Thanks.
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"Shay" <sha### [at] nonenone> wrote in message news:48c3e9c2$1@news.povray.org...
> St. wrote:
>> I would make it out of pewter <snip> This is something you could
>> do yourself and you wouldn't need a kiln, just a propane tank, the
>> right torch and some Delft Clay:
>
> Sounds extremely reckless for the inexperienced. I'm in!
Hehe, :) not as reckless as you may think, and thinking about it, you
wouldn't need propane, (that's me, I'm propane mad!), you could just use a
butane canister, or camping stove to melt the pewter. Find yourself an old
soup ladle from some junk shop somewhere to melt and pour your pewter, and
while you're there, ask the shopkeeper if he/she has any old pewter kitchen
equipment, like teapots, coffee pots, or even old beer mugs. Should be much
cheaper that way. (Although, I think it's fairly cheap to buy new anyway).
>
>> How many components are in this image?
>
> Many. That' why I think this one is best made from wood. I could cut out
> the components with the laser engraver in a couple of hours. I do want to
> try pewter, ceramic, and resin, however, with some more appropriate
> designs.
I envy you. You're about to set sail on a road of discovery that you will
really enjoy. Oh, and I'm here to help if I can in the metal department. :)
>
> Could I pour the plates out of pewter and then fold them over a rounded
> corner?
Sure. Pewter is great for that. All you would need is either a nylon or
rawhide mallet (preferably nylon like on that site in the products section,
because a rawhide mallet might leave a texture) to 'gently' tap it around a
dome. If you've ever played with lead, then that's how flexible pewter is
depending on its thickness of course. I say 'gently' because it is a soft
metal, and will easily distort if hit hard, but if you want a section of a
sphere, then that's the way to go. I'm not sure what you would dome it on,
It would depend really on how big the end product would be. But, think
glass, (large marbles, solid crystal balls of varying sizes which are *very*
strong, and won't chip), think brass and steel, (engineering scrappers,
rejects, i.e., spherical bearings and bushes). I use all of these except for
crystal balls.
Good luck Shay.
~Steve~
>
> -Shay
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