>> http://www.broadcom.com/docs/support/videocore/VideoCoreIV-AG100-R.pdf
>
> I'm not sure it answers my question, but it's certainly a very
> interesting read...
>
> Sections 8 and 9 in particular seem to be saying that there's about
> two-dozen memory-mapped registers that tell the GPU where the control
> lists are, and then it sucks those into the GPU and goes away to do it's
> thing.

As clipka said the raspberry pi gives a good opportunity to start 
tinkering around with the bare hardware without the restrictions of any 
OS. This is a good guide, in particular this page introduces 
communication with the GPU (just to create and get a pointer to a 
framebuffer):

http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/projects/raspberrypi/tutorials/os/screen01.html

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