 |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Warp wrote:
> At least CRTs require air circulation. I actually don't know about LCDs.
Given that I've seen digital SCUBA cameras with LCDs, I suspect they can run
for at least some time without a problem due to air circulation. Of course,
being under water, the problem of overheating might be less of a concern
than if you're being rained on in the tropics or something.
--
Darren New, San Diego CA, USA (PST)
Insanity is a small city on the western
border of the State of Mind.
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Warp wrote:
> How do you make the monitor waterproof?
>
> At least CRTs require air circulation. I actually don't know about LCDs.
Maybe it's watercooled? ;-)
Seriously though... The part of an LCD that gets hot is the flourescent
backlight. I'm no expert here, but I would imagine if you only run it
for a short time, it won't have time to heat up much. Those things don't
generate all that much heat. (Cathode ray guns require a heating
element, on the other hand...)
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
>> At least CRTs require air circulation. I actually don't know about
>> LCDs.
Depends on how much heat the backlight generates and what temperature it
needs to work in. If the waterproof LCD will be on a ship, I imagine you
can bolt it to a huge piece of metal which will work as a pretty good
heatsink. So long as you design the LCD backlight to have a good thermal
contact with the waterproof case from the inside it should work fine.
> Seriously though... The part of an LCD that gets hot is the flourescent
> backlight. I'm no expert here, but I would imagine if you only run it for
> a short time, it won't have time to heat up much.
Umm yeh, I don't think that's going to be acceptable to anyone if you can
only run it for 15 minutes then have to wait an hour for it too cool down
before you can use it again.
> Those things don't generate all that much heat.
It's surprising how hot things get when they are in sealed boxes...
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
>> Seriously though... The part of an LCD that gets hot is the
>> flourescent backlight. I'm no expert here, but I would imagine if you
>> only run it for a short time, it won't have time to heat up much.
>
> Umm yeh, I don't think that's going to be acceptable to anyone if you
> can only run it for 15 minutes then have to wait an hour for it too cool
> down before you can use it again.
Depends what it's for.
If, as when this thread started, it's for a computer, then no, that
probably won't be much good.
>> Those things don't generate all that much heat.
>
> It's surprising how hot things get when they are in sealed boxes...
True.
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Warp <war### [at] tag povrayorg> wrote:
> Tim Attwood <tim### [at] anti-spamcomcastnet> wrote:
> > Yeah, the waterproof ones are quite practical in marine
> > situations. You can hide a desktop box in a dry cabinet
> > and just have the keyboard and monitor exposed.
>
> How do you make the monitor waterproof?
>
> At least CRTs require air circulation. I actually don't know about LCDs.
>
cabinets. Basically they were normal CRTs housed in a stainless steel or cast
iron cabinet with a toughened glass port, kept under positive pressure. No
problems with them running 24/7 for months.
Stephen
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Well, by marine I meant on a boat, I've
seen a couple types of monitor mount...
1. Flush console mount: the monitor is
flush to a surface, so only the front needs
to be water resistant, behind the monitor
is generally some empty space for various
wiring.
2. Wall mount: the monitor is attached by
bracket to a wall or ceiling, usually with
some sort of overhead rain protection, and
a closable cabinet, or a way to detach and
stow the monitor.
In both situations there's the option of just
putting the monitor behind some plexi-glass.
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Invisible wrote:
> Seriously though... The part of an LCD that gets hot is the flourescent
> backlight. I'm no expert here, but I would imagine if you only run it
> for a short time, it won't have time to heat up much. Those things don't
> generate all that much heat. (Cathode ray guns require a heating
> element, on the other hand...)
Using an LED backlight instead of fluorescent. Heat problem solved.
--
~Mike
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
> Using an LED backlight instead of fluorescent. Heat problem solved.
Haha if only that were true. LEDs are very concentrated sources of heat,
this generates very high maximum temperatures compared to CCFLs. LEDs get
less efficient the hotter they get (opposite to CCFLs) ... say hello to
positive feedback! And anyway, currently LEDs aren't *that* much more
efficient than CCFLs at converting electricity to light, you're certainly
not going to half your power or anything like that.
The big drive to change from CCFL to LED is mainly because mercury is banned
(or will be banned soon) in most applications.
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
scott wrote:
> The big drive to change from CCFL to LED is mainly because mercury is
> banned (or will be banned soon) in most applications.
Question: How do you make mercury switches without mercury?
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Invisible wrote:
> Question: How do you make mercury switches without mercury?
You put a small metal rod in a glass tube ... (The AC system in my
apartment has one of these mercury-free mercury switches) it isn't
nearly as precise as a real mercury switch, either.
--
~Mike
Post a reply to this message
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
