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On 1/19/2016 12:12 AM, Sven Littkowski wrote:
> I heard, a common practice in 3D printing is, to use acetone to smoothen
> surfaces afterwards where applicable. I joint some 3D Printing groups on
> Facebook.
>
> Besides, I am really not so sure, how high the pressure on that plastic
> part is. The grinder came with a number of other plastic parts that can
> be mounted at the same location outside, where I want to mount this
> plastic part. And they have the same wall thickness (strength) as the
> part Scott and I developed. I think, I still want to give a try.
>
I suppose a lot depends on the 3D printer how good it is. I've not tried
3D printing myself. I have seen videos and some models are very good
while some home printers have lots of excess material that needs to be
cut off and smoothed.
I understand your desire to try 3D printing. It is modern and an
attractive idea.
> But in regards of the micro fauna and the fact, that 3D printing today
> (when done with a layer printer) is having a rough outside, I give you
> the point easily. I hope, with some acetone I can smoothen the inside.
> And otherwise, good cleansing afterwards and also before, each time.
>
I would be more worried about the inside of the funnel, where the meat
passes through.
Any small fissures would be filled by the meat moving under pressure. It
is your choice, of course. But as Scott points out. A metal one could be
turned in an hour on almost any lathe.
> ---------------
>
> I am still trying to find a solution in regards to my round grinding
> blade. If you know any good machine shops, please let me have their
> contact information. I am aware it will take some money, but need to
> find out, how much. Thanks. :-)
>
It would take more than money. You are really talking about prototyping.
Someone would need to make a punch and die set for the job. Then you
would need to try it and make any changes to the design (to stop
clogging or to cut the plastic smaller etc.).
Sorry about being so negative I hope someone can prove me wrong.
--
Regards
Stephen
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On 19-1-2016 10:51, Stephen wrote:
> On 1/19/2016 12:12 AM, Sven Littkowski wrote:
>> I heard, a common practice in 3D printing is, to use acetone to smoothen
>> surfaces afterwards where applicable. I joint some 3D Printing groups on
>> Facebook.
>>
>> Besides, I am really not so sure, how high the pressure on that plastic
>> part is. The grinder came with a number of other plastic parts that can
>> be mounted at the same location outside, where I want to mount this
>> plastic part. And they have the same wall thickness (strength) as the
>> part Scott and I developed. I think, I still want to give a try.
>>
>
> I suppose a lot depends on the 3D printer how good it is. I've not tried
> 3D printing myself. I have seen videos and some models are very good
> while some home printers have lots of excess material that needs to be
> cut off and smoothed.
> I understand your desire to try 3D printing. It is modern and an
> attractive idea.
>
>
>> But in regards of the micro fauna and the fact, that 3D printing today
>> (when done with a layer printer) is having a rough outside, I give you
>> the point easily. I hope, with some acetone I can smoothen the inside.
>> And otherwise, good cleansing afterwards and also before, each time.
>>
>
> I would be more worried about the inside of the funnel, where the meat
> passes through.
> Any small fissures would be filled by the meat moving under pressure. It
> is your choice, of course. But as Scott points out. A metal one could be
> turned in an hour on almost any lathe.
>
Adding to that, I would warn that truly cleaning those possibly small
fissures would be near impossible, with bacteria remaining behind. It
does not seem a good idea to me.
--
Thomas
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On 1/19/2016 12:30 PM, Thomas de Groot wrote:
> On 19-1-2016 10:51, Stephen wrote:
>>
>> I would be more worried about the inside of the funnel, where the meat
>> passes through.
>> Any small fissures would be filled by the meat moving under pressure. It
>> is your choice, of course. But as Scott points out. A metal one could be
>> turned in an hour on almost any lathe.
>>
>
> Adding to that, I would warn that truly cleaning those possibly small
> fissures would be near impossible, with bacteria remaining behind. It
> does not seem a good idea to me.
>
That is what worries me too. Although I just thought that if the inside
diameter was made slightly smaller. Then you could file then sand any
blemishes out before smoothing it with acetone.
--
Regards
Stephen
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On 19-1-2016 13:45, Stephen wrote:
> On 1/19/2016 12:30 PM, Thomas de Groot wrote:
>> On 19-1-2016 10:51, Stephen wrote:
>
>>>
>>> I would be more worried about the inside of the funnel, where the meat
>>> passes through.
>>> Any small fissures would be filled by the meat moving under pressure. It
>>> is your choice, of course. But as Scott points out. A metal one could be
>>> turned in an hour on almost any lathe.
>>>
>>
>> Adding to that, I would warn that truly cleaning those possibly small
>> fissures would be near impossible, with bacteria remaining behind. It
>> does not seem a good idea to me.
>>
>
> That is what worries me too. Although I just thought that if the inside
> diameter was made slightly smaller. Then you could file then sand any
> blemishes out before smoothing it with acetone.
>
I suppose so. Still, kitchenware used on raw meat should not be made of
plastic as a rule but of steel. Have a look in any self-respecting
restaurant kitchen.
[Remembering the days I used my Soviet-made, cast-iron, meat grinder...]
--
Thomas
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No, in opposition, I am sure, you are not wrong, but right. I see it the
same way, it will be a longer procedure.
Still considering the metal version...
I guess, I will make both versions...
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Point taken. :-)
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There are actually two types of 3D printers: those that print with
plastic filament layer by layer, and those other ones, that have liquid
plastic in a bowl and a laser light shapes the item while a mechanism
moves it slowly out of that light-sensitive liquid. That second type of
3D printer produces very smooth surfaces, and is even much faster than
the first version, and even much cheaper (100 US$). If desired, I can
give a URL for that printer. Please let me know.
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YES! Please take my design over to them! I need to hear their opinion.
Can you do this? Thanks.
i want to develop a machine, that makes out of empty plastic bottle
trash new PET filament for 3D printers, that is what I need this
fast-rotating disc for.
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> YES! Please take my design over to them! I need to hear their opinion.
> Can you do this? Thanks.
The first thing they'll want to know is the tolerances required on all
those c
> i want to develop a machine, that makes out of empty plastic bottle
> trash new PET filament for 3D printers, that is what I need this
> fast-rotating disc for.
This is called a regrinder. They are used in plastic part making places
to take scrap parts and convert them back into the pellets they can use
again to make more parts. The quality of the plastic is reduced though,
so usually there is a limit on the amount of regrind that is allowed in
the mix.
I can think of many methods to make a prototype of this (varying costs,
time accuracy and quality of course):
1. Find some commercial graters that look similar, cut them up and weld
them together as necessary.
2. Use a CNC to mill it from solid. Would require quite a high spec CNC
machine.
3. Mill out the holes from a sheet (a lower spec machine shop should be
able to do this), find something you can use as the "domes" (or machine
them from solid) and weld them all into the plate.
4. Make a simple die pair to cut and form one of the cutters, then
manually apply it using a hand-press at various points across the disc.
5. Make a die set to cut and form the whole thing in one shot from a
sheet of steel.
6. Talk to some metal 3D printing companies to see if they are able to
make something this size with the strength/accuracy needed on the
cutters (sorry I have no experience with this to know if it's feasible
or not).
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Good idea. :-)
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