Hi,
I'm new to raytracing, and I'm trying to make a WeiQi set, more commonly
known as "go": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28board_game%29
   For the board I need to make a 19x19 grid on top of it, and I was
wondering how I could do this.
I thought of making rectangles with very very low height, but this seems
more of a loophole...  is there a way to have have it "drawn" onto the
board, other than creating a texture somehow and putting that on? (would
that even work?)

thanks in advance

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"lifesayko" <lif### [at] gmailcom> wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm new to raytracing, and I'm trying to make a WeiQi set, more commonly
> known as "go": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28board_game%29
>    For the board I need to make a 19x19 grid on top of it, and I was
> wondering how I could do this.
> I thought of making rectangles with very very low height, but this seems
> more of a loophole...  is there a way to have have it "drawn" onto the
> board, other than creating a texture somehow and putting that on? (would
> that even work?)
>
> thanks in advance

I am also new to POV-RAY but i think that you might be able to use the brick
texture. I am not totally sure on this but it says that it makes a brick
with mortar, which sounds like what you want. You could use a wood texture
and a black pigment to make it. just experiment with that a little.

Post a reply to this message

"lifesayko" <lif### [at] gmailcom> wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm new to raytracing, and I'm trying to make a WeiQi set, more commonly
> known as "go": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28board_game%29
>    For the board I need to make a 19x19 grid on top of it, and I was
> wondering how I could do this.
> I thought of making rectangles with very very low height, but this seems
> more of a loophole...  is there a way to have have it "drawn" onto the
> board, other than creating a texture somehow and putting that on? (would
> that even work?)
>
> thanks in advance


Hi lifesyko,

I'm new to raytracing too (read "under a week old") and my 13yrs background
in photography and 12yrs writing software for banks is proving useful.
Although I'm new I think I can answer your question.

According to the documentation the "checker pattern is actually uses a
series of cubes one unit in size."  So I wouldn't call your soloution a
loophole and probably the best soloution as I don't believe the checker
pattern allows the flexibility you would need.  I guess you could also use
triangles but as these are planes may cause problems if you ever need to
use csg.

Hope that's of use, but bear in mind I'm as new to raytracing if not newer
than yourself!  :D  And I hope you don't mind if I take the liberty to say
hello to everyone as this is my first post on these boards!

Best of luck,
Tim

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> I thought of making rectangles with very very low height, but this seems
> more of a loophole...  is there a way to have have it "drawn" onto the
> board, other than creating a texture somehow and putting that on? (would
> that even work?)

Yes, there are possibilities to do what you want using layered textures. If
your Go-Board is meant to be made of wood, you could create a texture that
looks like wood. Then you create another texture which only has the lines,
the rest is transparent. Through the transparent regions you'll see the
wood-texture that is underneath.

Note that things like reflection and specular highlights are calculated for
the texture no matter if regions are transparent or not. So if you want you
want different finishes and normals for those regions, you'd have to use
patterned textures. This can become quite cumbersome very easily if you want
to do it in pure POV-Ray, but what you could do is create an image with
white representing the wood, and black the lines. Using the image as a
texture-map, you can then tell POV-Ray to use one texture for white and
another for black.

I recommend reading about this in the Docs, I just wanted to give you an
idea where to start. The best learning effort is obtained by doing things
yourself and just getting the pointers where to start. :-)

Regards,
Tim

-- 
aka "Tim Nikias v2.0"
Homepage: <http://www.nolights.de>

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Personally I just used really thin boxes (and cylinders for the hoshi):

http://warp.povusers.org/pics/goban.jpg
http://warp.povusers.org/pics/takapotku.jpg

  I haven't compared the rendering speed with a texture-only version,
but it's probably about equal.

-- 
                                                          - Warp

Post a reply to this message

Warp <war### [at] tagpovrayorg> wrote:
> Personally I just used really thin boxes (and cylinders for the hoshi):
>
> http://warp.povusers.org/pics/goban.jpg
> http://warp.povusers.org/pics/takapotku.jpg
>
>   I haven't compared the rendering speed with a texture-only version,
> but it's probably about equal.
>
> --
>                                                           - Warp



Thanks everyone, I'm trying out with the shapes then.
 For the individual squares I'm making one #declare, then using the objects.
However, in this way, the texture is always the same (I'm using a
woodgrain), which, when you consider 19x19=361 squares + the outside of the
board, gets quite repetitive.  Is there a way to have it switch textures
whithin the same object? Or do I have to create several objects?
     Or I suppose I could make a 1-piece board with a single texture, remove
a groove (sounds pretty slick hehe, 'remove the groove', sorry back to
reality) for the grid and have that inlaid?
   thanks again and for the patience!

Post a reply to this message

lifesayko <lif### [at] gmailcom> wrote:
>  For the individual squares I'm making one #declare, then using the objects.
> However, in this way, the texture is always the same (I'm using a
> woodgrain), which, when you consider 19x19=361 squares + the outside of the
> board, gets quite repetitive.  Is there a way to have it switch textures
> whithin the same object? Or do I have to create several objects?

  I just created 1 box for the whole board, and then "inlaid" 19*2 thin
boxes for the lines and 9 thin cylinders for the hoshi markers. This way
the board can have one big contiguous wood texture (which in fact
corresponds with reality, assuming the board has been made of one single
piece of wood).

-- 
                                                          - Warp

Post a reply to this message

Warp nous apporta ses lumieres en ce 02/04/2006 05:13:
> lifesayko <lif### [at] gmailcom> wrote:
> 
>> For the individual squares I'm making one #declare, then using the objects.
>>However, in this way, the texture is always the same (I'm using a
>>woodgrain), which, when you consider 19x19=361 squares + the outside of the
>>board, gets quite repetitive.  Is there a way to have it switch textures
>>whithin the same object? Or do I have to create several objects?
> 
> 
>   I just created 1 box for the whole board, and then "inlaid" 19*2 thin
> boxes for the lines and 9 thin cylinders for the hoshi markers. This way
> the board can have one big contiguous wood texture (which in fact
> corresponds with reality, assuming the board has been made of one single
> piece of wood).
> 
Another way is to put all small boxes in one union and apply your wood tecture to that
union. This 
way, your texture will continue from one small box to the next.

-- 
Alain
-------------------------------------------------
Boss spelled backwards is 'double-SOB'

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"lifesayko" <lif### [at] gmailcom> wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm new to raytracing, and I'm trying to make a WeiQi set, more commonly
> known as "go": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28board_game%29
>    For the board I need to make a 19x19 grid on top of it, and I was
> wondering how I could do this.
> I thought of making rectangles with very very low height, but this seems
> more of a loophole...  is there a way to have have it "drawn" onto the
> board, other than creating a texture somehow and putting that on? (would
> that even work?)
>
> thanks in advance

I say the easiest thing is to go over to POV-Objects page and get the Go
game that someone alreasy made and reverse engineer it to learn how it was
made and tweak it to suit you.
It is called Goban there.
Get it here:
http://objects.povworld.org/cat/Toys/for_Adults/

Post a reply to this message

wayne461 <wde### [at] yahoocom> wrote:
> I say the easiest thing is to go over to POV-Objects page and get the Go
> game that someone alreasy made and reverse engineer it to learn how it was
> made and tweak it to suit you.

  The easiest? On what do you base that claim?

  In your opinion instead of reading a clear explanation in English how
people have done it, it's easier to take someone's code, decipher it
("reverse engineer") and try to copy it?

  I disagree. Understanding someone else's code is always much more
difficult than understanding that someone else's clear explanation of
how he has done it.
  Of course trying to understand someone else's code is *one* way of
doing it, but in no way the *easiest* way.

-- 
                                                          - Warp

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