Mike Raiford wrote:

> Right. The bigger the aperture, the more glass (And in high-end lenses 
> it's exotic glass with exotic coatings) ergo, the more cost.
> 
> Remember, the glass has to be a special type (and in most lenses, there 
> are a couple different types of glass being used) to eliminate 
> dispersion effects. Also, its expensive to grind some of the profiles on 
> the glass to counter geometrical distortions. Again, adding to the price 
> tag.

I bet a £7,000 lense is really, really heavy...

(I couldn't tell from the picture, but it looked like it was 30cm across 
or something!)

-- 
http://blog.orphi.me.uk/
http://www.zazzle.com/MathematicalOrchid*

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Jim Henderson wrote:
> On Wed, 05 May 2010 12:35:02 +0200, scott wrote:
> 
>> And typically pros will not let the camera do *any* processing, and
>> import the raw sensor data to their computer for manual colour,
>> sharpness and exposure control.
> 
> Exactly - the adjustments I made were pretty basic with GIMP (similar to 
> the ones you made), but if RAW format images were available, there'd be a 
> lot more room to adjust things like exposure.

...but once the image has been taken, the exposure has already happened. 
How can you change it after the fact?

-- 
http://blog.orphi.me.uk/
http://www.zazzle.com/MathematicalOrchid*

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Sabrina Kilian wrote:

> You can fix it with the aperture and exposure, blurring out the
> background. You can fix it in post, just pushing the hue and saturation
> values around. You don't fix this in camera with menu options. Skip the
> color correction in camera, if you can. Skip jpeg if the camera has the
> option to shoot raw. You want some dark in there, so one fix in camera
> might be to under expose the images if you can not set the shutter speed
> directly.

Just FYI, the camera doesn't have any option to save anything but JPEG 
format. You can adjust the colour balance (but not very much), and 
exposure and IIRC you can manually set the shutter speed in case you're 
insane.

I still want a new camera. It's a PITA that I can't leave the batteries 
in this one...

-- 
http://blog.orphi.me.uk/
http://www.zazzle.com/MathematicalOrchid*

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Orchid XP v8 wrote:
> Jim Henderson wrote:
>> On Wed, 05 May 2010 12:35:02 +0200, scott wrote:
>> 
>>> And typically pros will not let the camera do *any* processing, and
>>> import the raw sensor data to their computer for manual colour,
>>> sharpness and exposure control.
>> 
>> Exactly - the adjustments I made were pretty basic with GIMP (similar to
>> the ones you made), but if RAW format images were available, there'd be a
>> lot more room to adjust things like exposure.
> 
> ...but once the image has been taken, the exposure has already happened.
> How can you change it after the fact?

In film cameras, exposure means how much time the film is exposed to light. 
In digital cameras, the sensor is receiving light all the time. What does 
"exposure" mean there?

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"Fredrik Eriksson" <fe79}--at--{yahoo}--dot--{com> wrote:
> On Wed, 05 May 2010 20:21:15 +0200, Darren New <dne### [at] sanrrcom> wrote:
>> I just got PSP X2 working again.
>>
>> What is with these companies?  PSP8 had a perfectly good mechanism for
>> browsing pictures.
> 
> Very different companies. Jasc good; Corel bad.

I remember using Jasc Paint Shop Pro 5... Now that had no bloat :)

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On 05/05/2010 7:21 PM, Darren New wrote:
> I just got PSP X2 working again.
>

...

> What is with these companies? PSP8 had a perfectly good mechanism for
> browsing pictures.
> </rant>
>

Thanks for the heads up :-D

-- 

Best Regards,
	Stephen

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Nicolas Alvarez wrote:
> In digital cameras, the sensor is receiving light all the time. What does 
> "exposure" mean there?

First, it's not.  At least in DSLRs. :-)

I suspect in things like the little cameras where you aim thru the LCD, 
there's either a non-mechanical shutter, or there's a wire that clears the 
sensor, you let it accumulate for some number of miliseconds, and then you 
read the sensor.

Second, if you're talking about the ISO setting rather than the exposure, 
that's about how much you pre-bias the electrons in the sensor. Basically, 
you load up each pixel of the sensor with some electrons, and if light kicks 
out an electron, you add one to the intensity of the light there. Adding 
more electrons makes it easier to get kicked out.

-- 
Darren New, San Diego CA, USA (PST)
   Linux: Now bringing the quality and usability of
   open source desktop apps to your personal electronics.

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Nicolas Alvarez wrote:
> "Fredrik Eriksson" <fe79}--at--{yahoo}--dot--{com> wrote:
>> On Wed, 05 May 2010 20:21:15 +0200, Darren New <dne### [at] sanrrcom> wrote:
>>> I just got PSP X2 working again.
>>>
>>> What is with these companies?  PSP8 had a perfectly good mechanism for
>>> browsing pictures.
>> Very different companies. Jasc good; Corel bad.
> 
> I remember using Jasc Paint Shop Pro 5... Now that had no bloat :)

I can still use 8. The only reason I even bought the new one is that when 
working on vacation photos, I tend to open up a bunch from the same scene 
(so to speak), do the adjustments, pick which ones I want to keep, then exit 
out and tell the paint program to save everything. This fails on PSP8 under 
Vista for some reason.  Otherwise I was perfectly happy with the program.

-- 
Darren New, San Diego CA, USA (PST)
   Linux: Now bringing the quality and usability of
   open source desktop apps to your personal electronics.

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On Wed, 05 May 2010 21:09:57 +0100, Orchid XP v8 wrote:

> Just FYI, the camera doesn't have any option to save anything but JPEG
> format. You can adjust the colour balance (but not very much), and
> exposure and IIRC you can manually set the shutter speed in case you're
> insane.
> 
> I still want a new camera. It's a PITA that I can't leave the batteries
> in this one...

What kind of camera have you got?  (I suppose I could look at the EXIF 
tags.....Fujifilm FinePix S304 it looks like.

Changing the shutter speed, though, that's not insane, that's sensible 
when you can tell how it will affect the image.

Jim

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On Wed, 05 May 2010 21:04:31 +0100, Orchid XP v8 wrote:

> Jim Henderson wrote:
>> On Wed, 05 May 2010 12:35:02 +0200, scott wrote:
>> 
>>> And typically pros will not let the camera do *any* processing, and
>>> import the raw sensor data to their computer for manual colour,
>>> sharpness and exposure control.
>> 
>> Exactly - the adjustments I made were pretty basic with GIMP (similar
>> to the ones you made), but if RAW format images were available, there'd
>> be a lot more room to adjust things like exposure.
> 
> ...but once the image has been taken, the exposure has already happened.
> How can you change it after the fact?

I've actually wondered this myself - raw editing software gives you the 
option to adjust the exposure; obviously, you can't pull details out 
doing this that are completely washed out or completely underexposed, but 
it is possible to bring additional detail out by making changes to the 
exposure setting (ev) after the photo has been taken.

I've done it, so clearly it's possible, I just don't understand the math 
behind it.

Jim

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