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Hi everybody, I'm trying with textures. This is the end test:)
Hasan
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Attachments:
Download 'kilit2.jpg' (433 KB)
Preview of image 'kilit2.jpg'
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Hasan3 spake:
> Hi everybody, I'm trying with textures. This is the end test:)
> Hasan
Love the knotholes... - warps?
--
Stefan Viljoen
Software Support Technician / Programmer
Polar Design Solutions
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Stefan Viljoen <spamnot@<removethis>polard.com> wrote:
> Hasan3 spake:
>
> > Hi everybody, I'm trying with textures. This is the end test:)
> > Hasan
>
> Love the knotholes... - warps?
>
> --
> Stefan Viljoen
> Software Support Technician / Programmer
> Polar Design Solutions
No warps, its nor procedural, image maps with bumps.
Only Lock's texture is procedural.
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Very impressive, in my opinion. Not quite perfect, but I can't put my
finger on why...
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Orchid XP v2 wrote:
> Very impressive, in my opinion. Not quite perfect, but I can't put my
> finger on why...
Looks great, the textures are just lovely.
But while we have our fingers out, there's a couple of compositions
things I'll put my finger on:
1. The two doors should come a lot closer to meeting as should the
vertical timbers
2. There's (possibly deliberate) evenly-spaced filleting down the
vertical timbers
3. The lock isn't held to the door in any way that will stop intrusion
3a. The RHS needs to have bolts or hotrivet through the timber
- round heads on the outside (and inside if they're
hotrivets and the long part of the hinge normally sits over
the top of that part making it even harder to unbolt.
3b. If you don't fold it over then the hinge-pin in the door
needs to be away from the gap between the doors so that all
that is exposed to the other side is flat iron
4. The doors need diagonal cross-bracing .. this holds the door up and
will stop it sagging
(If you're going for the look of low-tech (despite the padlock) then
you'll need to make the doors sag a fair bit and increase the size of
screws and bolt to the point where they could be hand-forged)
If you don't hate me right now, care to share that timber texture?
Cheers!
Rick Measham
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Rick Measham <rickm*at%isite.net.au> wrote:
> Orchid XP v2 wrote:
> > Very impressive, in my opinion. Not quite perfect, but I can't put my
> > finger on why...
>
> Looks great, the textures are just lovely.
>
> But while we have our fingers out, there's a couple of compositions
> things I'll put my finger on:
>
> 1. The two doors should come a lot closer to meeting as should the
> vertical timbers
> 2. There's (possibly deliberate) evenly-spaced filleting down the
> vertical timbers
> 3. The lock isn't held to the door in any way that will stop intrusion
> 3a. The RHS needs to have bolts or hotrivet through the timber
> - round heads on the outside (and inside if they're
> hotrivets and the long part of the hinge normally sits over
> the top of that part making it even harder to unbolt.
> 3b. If you don't fold it over then the hinge-pin in the door
> needs to be away from the gap between the doors so that all
> that is exposed to the other side is flat iron
> 4. The doors need diagonal cross-bracing .. this holds the door up and
> will stop it sagging
>
> (If you're going for the look of low-tech (despite the padlock) then
> you'll need to make the doors sag a fair bit and increase the size of
> screws and bolt to the point where they could be hand-forged)
>
> If you don't hate me right now, care to share that timber texture?
>
> Cheers!
> Rick Measham
Rick ,
You will almost write the door story. I'm very hating you:)
this is a joke.
I have not thought to make a architectural door.
I have wanted to realistic overlay to the timbers.
This wood texture :
http://www.monitorstudios.com/bcloward/textures/wood_boards.jpg
Regards.
Hasan
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The problem with the image is that the shadows/light on the stone image-map
is from the wrong side... inverse the stone image so that the light is
coming from the right instead of the left and it should look more
realistic.
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